Swimming With The Fishes


Was out at La Push a couple weeks ago on a Saturday.  Got in the water around 8am.  Not too many people out.  Maybe 20 total spread across the whole bay–plenty of space.  The water had warmed up significantly since i’d been there last.  Upper 50s.  The 4/3 without gloves was no problem.

For how small it was there was a decent amount of power.  Some small long per south mixed in bought the occasional two-wave thumper set.  Really fun.  Mid tide, breaking about 150 yards out.  Surprisingly rough paddle out for the small size.

Anyways…about 30 mins into the session i heard some yelling.  Was close enough to shore to be able to hear people talking–voices carry, across water.  Looked around, didn’t see anyone out of place. Heard it again…same.  Didn’t sound distressed.  No one on da beach was flailing around.  Whatever. Carry on with set wave detection focus.  Third time, i look back behind me and scan around looking towards shore.  Then i see him.  A head floating in the water and no associated surfboard.  Boom, immediately take off paddling towards kid.

Couple dudes on the other side of him ended up being closer and got to him quicker so i pulled the plug and returned to set wave focus.

Usually people don’t do too much ocean swimming up here due to the water temps.  Guessing kid went for it cause it wasn’t as cold but fucking A…

I wonder if that kid knew how close he was from drowning.  Seconds…


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