Super Mega South
The crazy swell that lit up the 2011 Teahupoo contest was big and strong enough to hit pretty much every spot on the west coast of Central America, Mex and the US. And Hawaii.
Stoked, i managed to find a cheap last minute ticket to Southern Cal. So i pulled the trigger and jumped on a Baja mission with a friend. Glad these dudes had it dialed. From what i hear, last place you want to go fucking around in is Baja. Sketch around every corner.
Got down to the zone on Wednesday shortly before the swell hit. Set up was one of the many right points in that area. Fun rides, inside barrel section for those of us who could actually get in/out. That was session #1. The following morning, session #2, the swell had arrived.
Some of the more intense swell* i’ve ever seen. 5 minute long sets with 20 waves in em. 22 sec period or something…and overhead. Surf ended up being quite a bit of work. Paddling out was no prob since there was plenty of time between sets…but when they did come in there was so much water moving…it was hard to stay in position. The larger of the set waves would break like a mile out and crumble all the way inside. The white water was moving pretty fast and was overhead–beat downs. Rough taking 10+ on the head for one good ride.
There was a huge dead/bloated/rotten sea lion on the rocks where we would paddle out. Gnarly downwind. On the second day the fishermen poured a bunch of diesel on it and lit that bitch on fire. Stank-be-gone Mexico style. See pic.
One of the guys lost a board…leash string broke. Board went into the rocks on the point and was completely obliterated. Chunks missing, buckled, fins broke, fin boxes blasted. 100% loss. Bummer.
Hung out for 2.5 days in Baja then headed back up north. The swell was still hammering in southern Cal when we got back. Good times.
Here’s a few snapshots.
*no homo.