It All Comes Down To This

About a year ago myself and a few people managed to be in the right place at the right time.  I don’t think any of us knew what we were in for.  We were rolling the dice like every other time.

That’s surf in a nutshell around here–a gamble.  Just when you think you understand it, recognize a pattern, or have confidence in the numbers, along comes some serious skunking.  It’s an emotional roller coaster of stoke fueled anticipation derailed by long drives to nothing.  It sucks. It’s expensive.  It’s discouraging.  There’s no way around it.

In the last year i’ve been to some amazing places, and have had many good sessions.  But nothing come remotely close to that day 12 months ago.  It’s burned into my brain.

The other day i saw it again.  Completely unexpected…

20k on the vehicle, hundreds* into my tank, countless skunkings, more road time than water time, just to see this once a year….

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