Set off on a weekend mission to the coast expecting mediocre surf, and typical coastal weather. Friday afternoon, a 3.5 hr endeavor turned into a 5 hour effort and killed our collective hopes/dreams of an evening surf. Clouds shutdown the near full moon that was zigging as the sun was zagging. Would have been an ideal twilight surf–no pun. Filled the belly, drank a couple and turned in.
Woke Saturday morning to conditions exactly as expected. I usually wake up early and hyped when i’m on the coast. Pretty much the same mode as when you were a kid at Christmas. Except there were no presents under the tree this morning. Awww.. 
Clouds, gray and microwaves. No real hurry to suit up despite typical antsy-ness. A neg tide was shutting down swell potential. Figured waiting a few hours would be the best plan but i wasn’t sure. Never really am.
Food, liquids, another couple hours of patients practicing and we hit it. Waves had definitely cleaned up with the tide though not much. As we were out there the surf got better–got a few decent rides. After maybe 4 hours i called it and went in beat. Food, liquids and another hour of chill time. Posted up on the beach and watched bros light up waves. Rad. Then the clouds began to part (see below), the waves cleaned up and started fucking firing. Presents!
Sun, teal green surf, shoulder, clean, and peeling. Fuck yes. Nothing like the sun to rejuvenate sore paddles and stoke. Let the suit get semi-dry in the sun and got back to it. Mid-day and the line up had cleared. Got every wave i wanted for a good hour. Good size drops, with long fast shoulders. Peeling left and right well. Fun overload. Bros eventually paddled out and joined the party. Good fucking time. So rad to run a lineup with all familiar faces and watch sick shit go down left and right–pun yes.
Surfed another 4 or 5 hours and went in. Food, liquids, nap attempt. No dice on the nap. Couldn’t sleep. Put the semi dry suit back on for an eve surf. Waves were still on. Got way too many waves for a couple more hours and called it. So damn fun.
Tried to stay awake for a while but KO’d around 11. But i did get to see my hommie receive a sweet bday present.
Sunday, woke up to drizzle, wet camp and low stoke. Beat to shit at this point. 8+ hours of surf the day before and now crappy coastal weather. Waves again were bad due to the neg tide. Had thoughts of pulling the plug and heading home. Nah…
Surfed a few hours in the morn after the tide filled in a bit more. Beat, came back in. Started packing up gear getting ready to head home. Took a trip to the amazingly disgusting bathrooms. When i came out the sun was out. WTF?! The waves were firing too. Fuck. Must surf…. More.
Suited up, paddled out. Fairly empty line up. Nailed every wave i wanted. Bros joined and same shit went down. All time.
Best waves and most fun surfing i’ve had in a while.
More pics here.
Better pics here.
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1st!
yep! all that and some kick-ass chocolate cake (thanks Kate!)!
rad. weekends like that make all the skunkings worth it…
Totally. Though though this one mighta been a little over rad. Could be due for some skunking now…
gotta go get gluttonous when the all time scenarios hit… skunk karma or otherwise. the stoke is high in this one.
glad to hear you get more than one good session in a row up there from time to time.. haha. great pics drx
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/1813765426….
How exactly does one "find" a board where people are surfing? Thief with second thoughts?
saw that…
no doubt. that's some major bad karma. my guess is the board has a blue foam top and says "Soft Top"
but really…someone needs to call Diana and pick up this gem: http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/spo/1816376332….
Strategically priced at $99. One more dollar and it would too expensive for that piece of shit. So, it being a two digit price tag makes it a wicked deal on a "water tight". Oh! It's Australian!!! Exotic.
http://www.youtube.com/watch#!v=ZPmo7owRU6o&
surfed there tuesday… pretty sick still.
been mind surfing teh fork outta this sp0t for hrs, days, weeks, and months… you shudda been there!
The summer scores are always that much sweeeeter. Plus you can surd your ass off with the long PNW days. Still just another day in San Diego including the traffic.