Saturday May 8th
On Saturday morning we surfed Troncones again. The waves were fun early though a bit smaller than the day before. One of our crew got blasted on the inside and took a few urchin spinos to the foot. Luckily it was on the top of his foot and he was able to function just fine for the rest of the trip. I’ve heard of bad urchin encounters that pretty much end your trip. If you’re a sissy.
There’s a wave right in front of where we were staying that looked so good. I’d been eyeing it the moment i walked out to the beach when we showed up Thursday eve. A really consistent and relatively clean left. The wave looked heavy as hell and equally as sketchy. Amazingly jagged rocks lined the shore and there was no obvious, safe way to paddle out let alone back in. Rocks would pop out of the water as the sets would surge over the reef, right were it appeared you would be surfing.
I decided to step after finding a less sketchy way out. I paddled slow, watching all the rocks around me, taking mental notes of their location and how dry they got as the sets would pass over them. I made it out to what i guess i’d call the line up and watched everything around me for a good half hour before i started to think about paddling for a wave. Watched how they broke, where sections would start, the optimal drop point, etc. After i performed testicle verification i paddled for a small, mid-set wave. I made the drop and noticed a bunch of knobby jagged rocks right under my feet as i was zipping down the line. That put things in perspective. Do not blow the drop. What that really meant was i was picking off the pussiest waves from the sets–only. The wave had a weird back wash from the reef that made it somewhat tough to catch but would jack and pitch in an instant. One wave i thought i had, felt like it was caught, went to step up and was immediately locked into the lip. A fraction of a second later and i would’a got fucking ejected to Freddy Krueger below but i jumped over the back of the wave and just started swimming with everything i had not to get sucked over the reef. I got pulled inside a ways but i didn’t hit anything. Whew…. Then i looked out the back and noticed a bomb with my name on it. Pulled my board back underneath me as fast as i could and started jamming. I didn’t quite make it under that wave clean. Kinda got clipped and had a damn long hold down while holding onto my board the whole time. Took it easy after that. Caught a couple more and carefully paddled back in.
Saturday eve after some grubs and chill time we made the trek to El Rancho. By this time the swell had dropped a bit and the wind had come up but still there were still some occasional head high sets. Surfed till the sun went down with only a couple other heads in the water. Got a lot of lengthy rides. That wave is so sick. I can only imagine it on a decent swell.
Be sure to check out Troncones Mexico – Part 1