A month or so ago I stopped in WaveHounds Surf Shop and oogled over the huge board selection that shop has. Eventually I came across the Lost Monkfish and was pretty much instantly stoked. 6-0 Rounded Pin Quad. Daymn! I talked to the owner for a while about nw surf, boards, shapes, etc. He kept going on about a custom Monkfish he was ordering and how sick they are. As i was holding the board, looking down the rails with envy, I agreed the board was sick but mentioned i had a similar board: the Channel Islands Pod. “Maybe if i break my super thick Pod in half i’ll come and get this!” We both chuckled mildly.
A week or two later i was surfing the Jetty at Westport. Sick day. Out with a handful of friends. Sunny, over head, offshore winds. Waves really easy to catch, nice shoulders, breaking left and right well, peaky. Really peaky. I’d gotten a bunch of waves when i paddled into one particular right and shot way out the shoulder on the drop. I figured it might be too far at first but then it started walling up. Really fast. I started racing down the line, pumping as best i could, when i saw the lip pitch just barely over my head in front of me. I was in the wave, only slightly hunched, racing to get out the barrel. I though i was golden then blamO! MF-ing got tomahawked in the back of the head, thrown down to the blast zone teeth first, sucked back up the face of the wave and pile drived again. Not the worst beating i’ve ever had, but still gnarly.
When i came up my board looked funny. The ocean f-ing snapped the Pod in half. Lame. Expensive.
Needless to say, i jinxed myself. Don’t talk shiit about your surfboards.
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Yeah, but if you didn't think about breaking it, which may or may not have initiated the break, you wouldn't have anything to blame it on: you would be left with having to attribute it to bad luck. Blaming stuff/people/or ideas is way better than just having bad luck. Bad luck gets depressing. And makes for bad stories. Thoughts, on the other hand, that determine and create reality make awesome stories. Abovementioned case in point.
wait a minute…was that math or something?!
I don't know. I blacked out.
So what would that mean I was to say something like “Next time I see Kelson I may break his nose.”?
Overhead and barreling huh. Why where you riding a 6-0 Pod? Sounds like a good day for a standard shorty. Preferably and personally a 6-6 round tail thruster.
def should'a been on a dif board. had i know the waves were gonna be like that…. the sandbars totally changed in Westport this winter. wave shape is different–a lot more juice now. steeper faces. there's an outer sandbar too. last few times i've been out there there's been a SUP'r way outside killing it. pretty rad.
SUP’r…jeesus christ. The coolest/trendiest new thing since surfing. Bet he’s from the eastside of the puget sound too.
yeah… the SUPr was killing it waaaay on the outside. plenty far away from anybody. i got the impression he knew what was up.
I've seen that guy paddles into some bombs out there. Also seen that guy stuff the nose and get catapulted like a motherfucker out there.