Westport – 03.28.10

G’damn it was large last Sunday.    Groins was a mess of current.  Only a few guys out at the Cove.  There were waves, but board breakers for sure.  Paddling out was tricky.  There was so much backwash-suck that the inside white water was double O at times.  Patience and timing was key.

All images courtesy of kikopkau.com – More Westport – 03.28.10 photos here.

Maybe a half hour out, after catching just one wave i was paddling back out to the “line-up.”  Got under one wave, came up and started scratching to get out for the next bomb that was coming.  I had a feeling i wasn’t gonna make it.  I was significantly farther out in the line-up than usual and this wave was walling up a good 20 feet out from me.  Then it broke. Huge.  I started swimming for the bottom at the last possible second(i know).  I felt my board get caught by the wave breaking above me, leg pull, leash stretch, then POP.  I surfaced, was allowed to breath, and saw my board bobbing inside of me.  Crap.

I had a swim waiting.  Lot of current, water moving everywhere.  This was gonna be interesting.  After every few strokes or so, i’d look back to see what was coming.  A few of the waves that i got dealt required some searching for the bottom.  They sounded like a freight train rolling over head.  Amazingly loud under water.

Re-leashed, breathed, and got back to it.

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