Did you surf last weekend? Me neither. I did however drive to the coast, put on a wetsuit, and splash around in the ocean with a surfboard. Everyone else i was with seemed to be surfing. Me? Nah…
The 1st spot we attempted was full of current, seals and dirty foam. The few waves that i did attempt mostly pitched me into a nice free fall then blasted the back of my head. A couple hold downs required leash assistance–”which way is up? Thanks leash.” Low wave count by way of lotsa physical effort motivated us to relocate.
Spot 2 looked promising. Significantly smaller, a lot less paddling, and overall less work. The water was a bit murky….full of dirt, sand and a tire. Paddled out and right off the bat got on a little right. Fun. Paddled back to the same spot i’d just taken off from in about 10 seconds rather than the 10 minute loop at spot 1. Easy.
Over the course of the next couple hours i was out, the tide was in the process of switching. The surf changed big time–it got a lot bigger and began breaking much closer to shore. I managed to catch a few decent rides…but the majority of the waves i got just destroyed me. I bounced off the bottom, got tomahawked by the “lip”, went over the falls, and got rolled up into close out bombs. It was pretty fun–i’m still picking the sand outta my ears though.
Here’s a few pics:
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At least ya got wet.
Really good round here sunday afternoon and yesterday morn.
I too made that trip to the coast and it sucked ballsacks.
F’n wind killed me too, not to mention shitty ass conditions.
I’d take a shitty day at the coast over a shitty day in the shitty.
a shitty day in teh shitty? dude, theres plenty of fun things for city kooks to do.