Surfed OShores last Saturday 10/13 with the Mega Crew: Clem, Ki, Kev, Otter, Petersen, JR, Bryan and Shawn. Buoy was reporting something like a 8′, 12 sec swell out of the WSW. Got to the spot at about 9; sun came out, clean, big, big waves.
1st attempt on the paddle out, powered through the inside and made it to the line up somehow. brutal. before i was able to catch anything i was ducking a wave, got picked up, pushed down and held under for a bit–had to grab the leash to get to the surface. that’s always a little lame. but not as lame as surfacing and seeing your board broken in fucking half!
yeah, somehow my board broke. i have no idea how it happened. i was far enough outside that it couldn’t have hit the bottom. i didn’t hit it when i got held down. i can only imagine a wave dumped on it at the surface when i was under. so lame–1st time i broke a surfboard! i got the board about a month ago. rode it in Costa and 3 weekends after–that’s it.
Mega Crew was cracking up when i rolled up with my two surfboard pieces. Ki let me borrow his South Coast and i got right back in. Paddled out next to the jetty in the rip. made it to the outside pretty easily…..waves out there were huge! HUGE! check out ki’s pics. Caught a few waves but mostly just paddled and got hammered on.
Super fun day with a rad crew of doods. Had the place to ourselves. I’d take a mediocre day at OShores with just my friends and i in the water than a sic day at Westport with 100 of your friends.
Word.
be sure to check out Ki’s pics….sic shots.
sick!